Day 24 Fontana Dam Shelter to Mollies Ridge Shelter (Mile 177.7)

(Entering Great Smokey Mountains National Park)

I was amused at the white blazes painted on the back of a sign, and a drinking fountain. The trail continues to be marked regardless of whether trees are available or not.

Before entering the Smokies, I got some great views of Fontana Dam. I took my time on the mile or so to the entrance of the Smokies.

I eventually entered the Smokies and had a mostly uphill hike. I had a really enjoyable hike despite the constant uphill climbing. The weather was cool and dry.

In the Smokies, thru hikers are required to stay in shelters unless they are full. I was one of the last to get to the shelter, so had to tent. I was actually happy with that result, rather than sleeping shoulder to shoulder with other hikers.

Also, I saw a deer when I arrived at the shelter!

I had a visit from a creepy critter (caterpillar or centipede?) on my tent and watched it with my headlamp as it crawled around the outside of my tent.

Day 25 Mollies Ridge Shelter to Derrick Knob Shelter (Mile 189.8)

Today was another beautiful day to hike. Great weather and pretty trees and flowers all around.

I stopped at a shelter along the way for lunch and a hammock nap.

I had a brief encounter with wildlife on my last quarter mile of the hike. As I was hiking up a hill, I looked up and saw a family of boars running on the trail in my direction. There was a mom and three babies. All I could think to do was get off the trail, and make noise with my trekking poles. They stopped for a few seconds on tge trail and ran off the side of the trail and down a hill. (I didn’t get a picture.) And then I proceeded to hike toward whatever they were running away from… It was probably just other hikers that scared them down the hill in the first place.

Day 26 Derrick Knob Shelter to Mt Collins Shelter (Mile 202.8)

Today I got to the top of Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the AT, and I have also hiked over 200 miles on the AT!

Here is a view of Clingman’s Dome from about a mile away…

And of course, I climbed the tower and enjoyed the view.

Day 27 Mt Collins Shelter to Newfound Gap (Mile 207.7)

Today I decided to go into Gatlinburg, to enjoy a night in a hotel. I enjoyed a cool 5 mile hike first.

I got to a parking lot a Newfound Gap, and caught the last seat on a shuttle into town just as it was leaving.

I got shower, dinner at a restaurant, and walked around town. I sat and watched some geese by a bridge after dinner.

Day 21 Rufus Morgan Shelter to Sassafrass Gap Shelter (Mile 143.8)

About a mile into my hike for the day, I walked through the NOC, where I found a general store, outfitter and laundry! I enjoyed some fresh coffee and a breakfast sandwich while I waited for my laundry.

I considered staying in town, but ultimately decided I already took 3 whole days off in Franklin. I knew that the next 7 miles were nearly all uphill, and that I should take advantage of the dry weather. I procrastinated in town until about 1pm or so before hiking on.

This hike was the first time on the trail that I really had a bad day. I was sore and grumpy. I struggled physically and mentally.

After hiking for a few hours, I decided to take a break and see if I had service. I did! I called my mom, and I told her I was halfway up a mountain. After I hung up, I checked my phone and realized I was actually only 3 miles into a 7 mile hike.

The weather was hot. I kept hiking fast in the sunny parts and taking little breaks in the shade. I saw a lizard which I thought was cool, but then I remembered I should watch out for snakes and cautiously watched for them as I hiked (I didn’t see any.)

Periodically I would check to see how far I went, and it was always less than I thought. If I thought I went a mile, it was actually 0.5 miles, etc.

There were a few downed trees to climb over. These were a huge bummer on top of my already grumpy mood. Approaching these, and figuring out the best way to get my pack and my sore body over was a challenge.

After several hours of perpetually climbing uphill in the heat, I came across an amazing view. Once I got here I sat down on a rock and just enjoyed the moment. The air felt cool. I felt relaxed. A wave of relief and emotion came over me, and I sat and actually cried for a minute. I remembered that I am very fortunate to be able to experience this thru-hike. After a few minutes, I continued on (I actually still had about another uphill mile or so to go for the day.)

I eventually got to the shelter. I got there later than most people. There was room for me to sleep in the shelter which saved me some time as I didn’t need to set up my tent. I finished some dinner in the dark and reflected on the day before calling it a night.

Day 22 Sassafrass Gap Shelter to unmarked spot past Brown Fork Gap Shelter (Mile 153.3)

About a mile into the hike I reached the peak of Cheoah Bald. All the hard work from yesterday had paid off.

I enjoyed an early lunch and enjoyed the real view and cool weather.

I had a nice hike to the next shelter. It was a small shelter and was full, with no good tent spots nearby. I hiked a little passed the shelter and stealth camped at an unmarked spot near a water source off the trail.

Day 23 Unmarked spot to Fontana Dam Shelter (Mile 165.9)

Today I was packed and started hiking by 7:30am. This is the earliest I’ve started so far. I needed to make about 11.5 miles before the Fontana Dam post office closed at 3:45, because I had a package there with all my food for the Smokies.

I made really good time, despite hiking in some morning rain and stopping to take pictures.

I eventually made it to the post office with no issues, and hiked about another mile further to the Fontana Dam Shelter, which was the best shelter so far. There were trash cans, bathrooms, showers, and a water spigot with drinkable water.

This was the last day before entering the Great Smokey Mountains National Park.

Day 16 and 17,

I took 2 more zero days in Franklin…I planned to hike out day 16, but weather was supposed to be heavy rain, winds and even tornado warnings, so I decided to stay 1 more day. And the next day I heard there were snow showers, so I decided to hang out with other hikers in town one more day.Day 18 Rock Gap to Siler Bald Shelter (Mile 113.1)I learned that if you leave your shoes next to a heater in a hostel for a couple of days, the insoles will melt. Luckily I was able to buy some new inserts before shuttling back to the trail.The campsite had a beautiful grass field, where everyone set up their tents. We also had some fun with a ukulele by campfire.

Day 19 Siler Bald Shelter to Cold Spring Shelter (Mile 125.2)Today was another 12 mile day, with several uphill climbs. Today’s hike included a climb up Wayah Bald. In addition to finding an actual restroom and trash cans, I was rewarded with amazing views!The second half of the hike I tried to make up time since I stopped for a few breaks on the climb. Made it to the campsite behind the shelter before dark.

Day 20 Cold Spring Shelter to Rufus Morgan Shelter (Mile 135.9)Today included a climb up Wesser Bald, with a view from the observation tower.Some hikers just ahead of me saw a rattlesnake near Wesser Bald. I did not see it, but was super careful watching out for them the rest of the day!

Day 12 Plumborchard Shelter to Standing Indian Shelter (Mile 85.9)

I’m in North Carolina!! One state down!!

Not only did I cross a state line today, I also hit my longest mileage so far at 12.2.

I had a great hike with nice weather.

Given the longer mileage, I got to the shelter site early evening. People were already settled and were chatting by campfire. I sat with them and ate dinner.

Day 13 Standing Indian Shelter to Betty Creek Gap Campsite (Mile 97.2)

This was the first night I was actually a little cold. I figured out that if I sleep on my back or stomach it’s warmer. If I rolled onto my side, I would wake up cold.

But once I got going the day was actually really nice.

About 2 miles before the campsite I stopped to enjoy an amazing, breath-taking view.

For some reason I was amused that this campsite has a designated toilet area… (It’s just trees.)

Day 14 Betty Creek Gap to Rock Gap (Mile 105.7)

Another great day with sunny weather. Today featured probably the most difficult climb so far, Albert Mountain. This is the first climb that required using your hands to climb up, rather than just walking up an incline.

After reaching the top, I had about 6 miles of gradual down hill terrain which was a nice reward.

I hiked to Rock Gap, where I caught a shuttle into Franklin, NC for a zero day!

Day 15 Franklin NC (zero miles)

After my first 100 miles, I stayed in town and rested, ate at restaurants. I also resupplied (bought more food for the next few days). And I bought a good warm layer to sleep in, since the past couple nights were a little cold.

Blue Mountain Shelter to Uniqoi Gap (Mile 52.5)

Today was a little bittersweet. I decided to take it easy, and hike 2.5 miles to Uniqoi Gap and shuttle into town (Helen, GA). The rest of the group I had been camping with each night planned on stopping in Hiawassee in a couple days. My foot needed some ice and rest so I decided to part ways, and maybe I’ll see them again in a few days.

It turns out, Helen, GA is the cutest town ever! I really enjoyed walking around town.

I got some laundry done, showered, and resupplied at Betty’s Country Store.

I had dinner at Troll Tavern, which was actually under a bridge! (And yes I was dining alone and asked the waiter to take a picture of me…)

Day 9 Uniqoi Gap to Tray Mountain Shelter (Mile 58.2)

Next morning was back to business. I got a shuttle back to the trail at Uniquoi Gap, and I hiked to the next shelter about 6 miles. I was more careful to take breaks and rest my foot throughout the day.

I definitely noticed the weight of my now full food bag, and carried that new weight up two fairly significant climbs (that’s why the rest of the group is waiting a couple days to stop in Hiawasee…)

Apparently Tray Mountain Shelter is known for being drafty. Wind and rain blows right in. I decided to tent nearby, but people who stayed in the shelter had a creative solution, blocking the entrance with a discarded tent that someone had left behind.

Day 10 Tray Mountain Shelter to Deep Gap Shelter (Mile 65.6)Today was supposed to be a rainy day according to other hikers. I made myself a cold coffee to go in an effort to save time and beat some of the rain. It actually turned out to be a really nice sunny day instead.I took a little hammock break today. I think this is my favorite luxury item.Also today was my first time sleeping inside one of the shelters. This one had two floors and I got a spot on the 2nd floor.

Day 11 Deep Gap Shelter to Plumborchard Shelter (Mile 73.7)

Today actually was rainy… pretty much the entire day. I really didn’t take many breaks, mainly because it’s not fun to sit in the rain. I made pretty good time getting to the next shelter.

Plumborchard Shelter is actually a 3 level shelter. When I got there it was packed! People huddled together inside. Wet clothes and gear hung from every available hook or peg.

The rain died down in the afternoon, and some people decided to tent. I stayed in the top level.

The pictures below were taken the next morning after most people had left. There were 6 or 7 of us on the top level sleeping shoulder-to-shoulder. Altogether the shelter is supposed to hold 14 people max, but we had 21 inside that night, plus one on the table out front, plus one who decided to sleep underneath the shelter!

Day 6 Neel Gap to Low Gap (Mile 42.3)

(Not a lot of pictures for day 6, because it was really rainy.)

Like so many others I sent home a few items before I left Neel Gap (My broken trekking pole, an extra long sleeve shirt, and my extra cell phone). I should be about 14oz lighter now, woo hoo!

Today was a long day, which was expected since I was planning on 11.5 miles.

Part way through the day I got caught in a scary loud thunder storm. At least three times, I jumped at the loud thunder. The storm was so close and basically right above where I was. A friend of mine up ahead turned back and let me know that there was an open rock face ahead. We didn’t want to cross it, because with no trees, we would be the highest point. We waited about 20-30 minutes in the rain and hail counting the time between lightning and thunder until we decided it was safe before continuing on.

Eventually, I ended up hiking alone again. At one point I slipped and fell on the trail. Got a couple of nice bruises. I was frustrated with the weather and from my fall.

As I hiked on I randomly noticed there were several worms crawling around the trail. To pass the time, I counted all the worms I saw for the rest of the way. (I saw 12.)

At about halfway to my goal, I came across some trail magic! A couple guys were set up handing out sodas and hostess cakes. I trudged on for the second half of the hike, barely making it before dark (as usual).

Day 7 Low Gap to Blue Mountain Shelter (Mile 50.1)

Today started out to be difficult mentally. I woke up in the grumpiest mood ever. I didn’t sleep well because of the bruises from falling in the rain the day before. My left foot was swollen and in pain. I sat in my tent contemplating taking a zero day and just resting at camp.

While I was at camp and not in a hurry to get going, I took advantage of the sunny weather and dried out some clothes.

Later I realized though if I pushed it one more day I would be really close to a road to go into town, so I decided to hike on. I left camp late at about 1pm, but only needed to go about 6 miles.

Day 4 Gooch Mountain Shelter to Jarrard Gap (Mile 26.3)Today was tricky to plan. Basically in 5 miles was Woody Gap, which has road access and a chance to go into town and rest (I am super sore at this point so considered it…) 5 miles past that is the next good campsite (lots of space, water source). 5 miles beyond that is an area that I cannot camp because a hard shelled bear canister is required, which I do not have. So it comes down to Option A: 10 mile hike today, 5 mile hike tomorrow or Option B: 5 mile hike today, 10 mile tomorrow. Later I found out it was supposed to rain tomorrow, so I decided to push through and do 10 miles today and only 5 in the rain (Option A).I started with Lorin again. Surprise-surprise, we did not get an early start, even though we were trying for a longer day.We stopped and had lunch at Woody Gap, then pushed on to our 10 mile goal of Jarrard Gap. We were both a little stressed as it got passed 7:30. I pulled out my head lamp just in case we would be stuck hiking in the dark.Luckily we made it to camp around 8pm, just as it started getting dark and quickly set up our tents. Tom was there! He got out of his tent and started helping us set up.Before I could finish setting up my tent, rain started coming down. I hadn’t eaten dinner yet so I quickly ate a protein bar while I walked to hang my food in the rain. I got back in my wet tent and changed into dry clothes.Even though the day was super stressful, I was left with a feeling of adrenalin. We won the day and made it safely before the dark and rain.Also, I made it over a marathon on the AT!! (Jarrard Gap is mile 26.3)Day 5 Jarrard Gap to Neels Gap (Mile 31.3)Today I was ready and on my way by 8:30am!! I finally got going early.My plan was to get going and reach Neels Gap early so I could spend most of the day off my feet.Today’s hike included climbing Georgia’s highest point, Blood Mountain. At the top I found Blood Mountain Shelter. Inside I met Quartz, who was giving Tarot readings and offering coffee and tea. It was warm inside the shelter, and I took a longer break than planned.I had about 2 miles to go after the shelter. Not long after I left, it started raining. For the last mile it was pouring hard.I got to Neels Gap and checked into a hiker hostel, got a hot shower and a frozen pizza.

Day 1 Approach trail to Springer Mountain Shelter (8.8 miles)I got dropped off at the Amicalola Visitor center. I had one minor set back as I was getting ready to start. One of my trekking poles wouldn’t set. I messed with it for a few minutes before deciding to just pack it and just use one.The hike was beautiful and challenging. I definitely underestimated the 604 stairs on the approach trail.I ended up hiking with a man named Tom for the last couple miles or so. Eventually we made it to the first official white blaze and start of the Appalachian Trail!A little past this point I found Springer Mountain Shelter, which was full so I pitched my tent nearby, met some of the other hikers and settled in for my first night.Day 2 Springer Mountain Shelter to Hawk Mountain Campground. Mile 7.4.I woke up and noticed the overnight rain got some of my stuff wet including the outside of my sleeping bag which was touching one of the tent walls.I was really slow to pack up all of my wet stuff and eat breakfast before heading out. It was about 11:30am before I got going. All of the other hikers had already moved on.I stopped at Stover Creek Shelter (about 2.8 miles) for lunch and to try to air out my tent.I was extremely happy to finally get to the next campsite before it got dark. My feet were killing. I met up with Tom and Lorin who I met on day 1. I set up my tent in a site next to them and we all had dinner together. I went to sleep with the goal of getting an earlier start tomorrow.Day 3 Hawk Mountain Campground to Gooch Mountain Shelter (Mile 15.7)Today I hiked with my new friend Lorin. Tom had gotten an early start and left while I was still eating breakfast. I did not manage to get out early today.Most of the hike was fairly uneventful, beautiful scenery and overcoming pain in feet and shoulders.One amazing thing did happen though. We stopped to get water, and a guy at the creek complained that he was carrying an extra trekking pole for another guy he hadn’t met that lost it. I mentioned that I was using 1 pole and could take it off his hands. So I got to finish the last 2 miles with two pole which was awesome! The trail provides!

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I discovered I can actually bring a wheeled suit case on my hike, which will save a lot of stress on my knees. Perfect!!

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(Happy April Fools Day!!)

Thanks Jeremy for the awesome new site logo!!